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This document was prepared on October 1, 2007, after, roughly, 24 months and 16,000 miles of life with a 2006 Kawasaki KLR650.
Not a substitute for the Factory's Owner's Manual, or the publications in the Clymer series, the information presented below is intended to serve as a companion to the aforementioned works, i.e., it's a means of sharing experience with other owners, potential owners, and novices undertaking the daunting task of familiarizing themselves with mechanical work.
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Motorcycle Drive Chain Lube "How To" Illustrated
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Supplies:
(1) clean rags;
(2) chain saw bar oil OR other heavy lubricant, e.g. 80-90 gear oil;
(3) WD-40 OR other o-ring safe cleaner, e.g., kerosene;
(4) 14-18 inch "other-side" stand, stick OR suitable lifting device;
(5) toothbrush.
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The processes of chain cleaning and lubrication are very much easier if both the rear wheel and also the drive chain are free-spinning,
i.e., it helps to have something to elevate the rear wheel: centerstand, lift, or other.
The "other" in the case of the KLR650 is a 14"-18" stick.
If you don't have something, however simple, you'll need to walk the bike to access the whole chain.
After setting the "real" side stand, and locking the bars full-left,
I'll walk around to the right side of the bike and push up on the right side of the bars.
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When the rear wheel is off the ground,
I'll reach down and slip the 14"-18" stick under the swingarm. No worries.
The extra weight and $$$ of a bolt-on after-market centerstand are not for me.
This works - it's light and it's free.
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(1) side stand;
(2) "other-side" stand.
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(1) left hand spins the wheel, moving the chain;
(2) right hand sprays WD-40, liberally.
Keep the lube/cleaner away from the tire rubber and the brake disc/pads.
Remember, you don't need to use WD-40.
Just be certain that whatever you do choose to use is an "o-ring safe" cleaner.
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(1) right hand drops the WD-40, and picks up the toothbrush - scrubbing all four "sides" along the chain's whole length.
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(1) left hand still spinning wheel,
(2) the right hand applies a clean rag to the chain, removing excess WD-40 along with any remaining grit.
The rag is flipped to expose a fresh surface;
coated with the chainsaw bar oil;
and then re-applied to the chain.
In theory, an o-ring chain contains its own lubrication.
In practice, it's better to err on the side of caution.
You're done!
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Removing the chain and soaking it is the best thing - especially if it's covered in salt or abrasive grit.
BUT removing the chain [especially if it's an endless type] isn't always easy.
Trick: If you remove only the rear wheel, you can enjoy all the benefits of soaking while leaving the chain mounted on the bike - by drawing the chain, submerged, through a (2) trough of heavy oil - as the chain hangs off the front [drive] (1) sprocket.
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caution
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These motorcycle pages reflect their author's personal experience.
Information presented on this website ought not to substitute for any professional service.
Go to Kawasaki, the MSF, the SMF and the AMA; they want to help you.
Read the Hurt Report.
Do your own research; formulate a hypothesis; test it.
Read the material linked from this site.
Take responsibility.
Ride to be alive.
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drive chain
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Year 2006, Model KL650A6F
Stock Chain: Enuma EK520SR-02
Type: Endless
Est. Life: 6,200-25,000 miles
Inspection Schedule: 400 miles
Slack @ Rest: 2.0-2.6 inches
Front Sprocket: 15 Tooth
Rear Sprocket: 43 Tooth
Suspension Travel: 9.1 inches
Regular cleaning of the drive chain, like regular changing of the engine's oil, seems to be more important than the product used...
I haven't found anything better, safer, more convenient or cheaper than WD-40.
It cleans and lubes the chain - but, because it is "thin" it flings off the chain fairly quickly.
Is that a bad thing?
When I feel the need to apply a heavier lubricant to the chain, I use chainsaw bar oil - a sunflower seed based product that is cheap, effective and odor-free.
80-90 weight gear oil stinks, is more costly and is less environmentally-friendly.
But, while either of those products [chainsaw bar oil, or 80-90 weight gear oil] will stick to the chain - they'll also attract dirt/grit.
And that will necessitate cleaning.
Re-enter the WD-40.
You can never lube too often. Once upon a time some motorcycle makes did have fully enclosed chains and/or ran in an oil bath.
[Search for "Horex" and "Maico" information.]
You can lube too much - if said lube flings onto your tire rubber and/or brake disc and pads.
This is more likely to be a problem with huge amounts of a very thin product.
You ought not to need to "degrease" your chain.
Stripping lubricant is bad.
Removing grit [especially if you live in an area with quartz sand or volcanic ash] along with rust and road salt [Chicago] is the goal.
A kerosene soak ought to safely loosen anything.
Removing the chain and soaking it is the best thing.
BUT removing the chain [especially if it's an endless type] isn't always easy.
Trick: If you remove only the rear wheel, you can enjoy all the benefits of soaking while leaving the chain mounted on the bike -
by drawing the chain, submerged, through a trough of kerosene or heavy oil -
as the chain hangs off the front [drive] sprocket.
The O-ring type chain is a compromise between totally sealed and bare links, i.e., only the "parts that count" are sealed.
Again, it's a compromise: easier to access than the sealed type, but not as long lasting.
Just like tire pressure: your bike, you, the conditions in which you ride seem to dictate what to do.
"How do I know if my sprockets are worn?" View this excellent photograph comparing worn and new sprockets from a BMW F650 GS.
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drive chains on-line
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Chains @ Dan's MC
O-Ring Chains @ Wikipedia
Chain Lube 101 @ Motorcyclist
Chains @ Motorcycle.com
Chain Lube @ ADVrider.com
Chain Care @ MSM
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KLR650 on-line
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One of the best things about the KLR650
is the fact that thousands of riders have been on-line
sharing their experience with said model for a decade.
Make use of that knowledge.
Find as much relevant information as possible - prior to making your own decision.
klr650faq
- The most encompassing single-page collection of general information that I have found, on-line. Compiled by Chris Krok.
multisurfacemotorcycling.com
- Elden Carl and company. A great resource for Kawasaki KLR, Suzuki DR/Z and Honda XR/L riders. Maintenance, ride reports, etc.
f650.com
- BMW F650GS focus, with useful commentary on tires, riding tips, etc; applicable to most 650cc single-cylinder motorcycles.
Diesel KLR650
- Diesel engine conversion from F1 Engineering.
U.S. Marine Corps KLR650
- YouTube video, including multi-fuel capable segment.
Owner's Pages
1999-2006 KLR650
- Five-time KLR650 owner Verle Nelson. A good read.
2001 KLR650: mods, trips, etc.
- Good pictures of Ortlieb dry bags mounted on a KLR650. Mods, etc.
1999 KLR650
- Mods, tires, etc.
An unhappy owner :(
Forums
KLR650.NET
- The first, and still the largest, KLR-specific forum on-line.
klrforum.com
- ?
klrworld.com
- ADV's Hondo and company; member's rides featured.
Yahoo
- Dual Sport News' Yahoo! Groups KLR650 list. Since 2000. Register to read.
Adventure Touring
Bob's KLR650 Arctic Adventure: 2005
- Gear reviews and mods, on the road to the Arctic Circle via Alaska (again).
Motorcycle touring
- An old hand's advice on packing, gear, lodging, etc. Good stuff.
ironbutt.com
- The Archive of Wisdom at Iron Butt.
horizonsunlimited.com
- An awesome, global, adventure touring website.
advrider.com
- A great forum, and archive, dealing with adventure touring, and motorcycling, generally.
Greg Frazier
- Crow Indian Tribe, PhD Economics, author, motorcyclist. He's been doing it a long time.
Parts Options
dual-star.com
- Racks, bags, etc. Fuel tanks. Washington State.
happy-trail.com
- Racks, aluminum panniers, guards etc. Made in the U.S.A., at the Happy Trails shop in Idaho.
ronayers.com
- Parts, tires, helmets, etc.
Arrowhead Motorsorts
- Utah, Moab, "Fred" has a good reputation.
Eagle Mfg. and Engineering
- Most "doohickey" upgrades appear to be "Eagle" Mike's work. And people are pleased.
Schnitz Motorsports, Inc
- In addition to the usual parts, also the 685cc upgrade. Folks have mentioned being happy with their work.
Tires
- A compendium of rider's opinions on various tire models culled from the Yahoo! list, and the klr650faq. Check f650.com for additional.
Reviews
AMA: 2005 model review
- On the road, in Alaska.
Motorsports-Network: 2004 model review
- Up the California Coast.
Minnesota Motorcycle Monthly: 2002 model review
- Through the Upper Midwest.
Motorcycle Daily: 2002 review
Epinions.com: 2000 model review
Specs: 87-96 models
Thanks
When I began looking for a motorcycle on which to take a long ride, I found
Mariola Cichon's "Ride of the Heart" website.
It's gone, living now only in memory and the
Internet Archive
.
But it was because of that Polish lady from Chicago that I wound up on a KLR650.
Thanks!
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women
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Had it not been for the women in my life, on-line, and behind the books, I would not have done this - this way.
The best MSF course that I took contained the most female students - including two mother & daughter pairs. (It was taught by the oldest instructors too.)
There are height, weight and strength issues in motorcycling; but there are no gender issues between you and the machine.
Women on bikes, on-line:
ridemyown.com/
femmoto.com/
mxgirls.com/
motogirlz.org/
womenonwheels.org
motormaids.org/
supersarah.net
wimausa.org
vtwinmama.com/
wrench-wench.com/
And Melissa Holbrook Pierson wrote a really good book:
The Perfect Vehicle.
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contact
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Post:
Paul E. Germanos
478 S. York
Elmhurst, IL, 60126
U.S.A.
Cell:
773-592-0943
E-mail:
paulgermanos(at)msn.com
Bio
Journal
Chicago Guide
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ads?
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It seems impossible to discuss what has, and has not, worked - without making reference to particular products.
"What should I get?" "Where should I get it?" "How much should I expect to pay?" "Who has good service?"
People want to know.
Prior to making a major purchase, most savvy consumers attempt to gather as much information as possible.
For most of us, a motorcycle is a major purchase.
Look around. Be informed.
If I write about something, it is only because I have used it.
If I link to something, it is only because I have found it to be helpful.
If I include ads, it is to help to pay for the cost of the website.
And Google's ads seem to supply content that is relevant to this page's purpose.
Again: I don't know how to provide information about the KLR650, accessories and motorcycling generally, without advancing, or inhibiting, someone's commercial agenda.
Be smart: Look; learn; decide; and then get away from the computer - and go ride.
Motorcycling isn't in here; it's out there.
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