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| First Motorcycle Pages: Getting Started | Choosing a Bike | Selecting Gear | Cost of Ownership | Wind & Rain | Theresa Wallach | |
| Kawasaki KLR650: Index | Maintenance | Chain Lube | Chain Tension | Oil Change | One Year Review | |
| Stories and Maps: Ride America 2005 | American Southwest 2005 | |
| Picture Sets: Arkansas - Texas | Austin | Chicago | New Mexico - Arizona | Santa Fe | Thorndale | |
| About Paul: Bio | Chicago Guide | Taxi Driving | |
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Selecting GearAnyone mature enough to become involved in motorcycling -- even if not yet a rider -- ought to be able to imagine a list of essential personal equipment:
Wake up. You are not in a car. Don't be the rider who slides across the concrete -- at 70 m.p.h. -- with bare skin exposed. Don't be the motorcyclist automobile drivers fail to see. Forget fashion. Forget conformity. And do what works. But for having seen things go wrong I would not write this. What's Involved in YOUR Crash? Every crash event is unique. You don't know what you're going to hit, how your body will move through space, or what will hit you after you come to a rest. Consider the trauma that might be involved in a motorcycle crash on the roadway:
[British Government Department of Transport Crash Study (PDF)] [Hurt Report Summary] Materials from which Gear is Fabricated In most cases, leather is the best thing that a
motorcyclist
can wear. A quality leather product lasts a long time too. But not all
leather is
created equal. Is the jacket [or are the pants and gloves] that you're
considering for purchase
constructed from
leather that's thick enough to survive a crash? You'll see
numbers
such as 1.3mm or 1.4mm put forth in advertising. Generally
speaking, the thicker the better. Different animal
hides possess different attributes too. What sort of hide is
being sold? And what sort of
stitching holds the hide together? Was the garment cut in such
a way that it will feel comfortable in the
position in which you'll ride? Was the garment designed and
fabricated
specifically for motorcycling by a reputable manufacturer such as
Vanson, Hein
Gericke, Held or Dainese? The right choices will pay dividends. If your crash involves a
hot object, heat generated by
friction, or significant abrasion, then quality leather will
provide
you with the
best possible protection. For those reasons, at every racetrack around the world you'll find leather. But it isn't always good to argue from "The Track" to "The Street." The track tends to be populated by healthy, young, professionals moving in the same direction, at the same speed, with hazards removed, and medics waiting for the worst. Leather isn't perfect. The chief arguments against leather in "The Real World" are:
(1) its poor performance in the rain; (2) its weight; and (3) the
ethical questions raised by its production.
For these reasons, many riders opt to wear "textile"
garments made from synthetic materials such as Cordura or Kevlar. I've
crashed in such a suit -- an Aerostich Roadcrafter -- and it worked. Regardless of whether your gear is leather or
synthetic, does it contain armor? Does that armor consist of both
hard "plates" of material -- designed to prevent penetration by foreign
objects -- and also soft "pads" of material -- designed to absorb the
energy of the crash?
Does that armor protect the knees? Elbows? Back? Shoulders? Hips?
The "classic" black leather "biker" jacket usually offers abrasion
protection,
but little else. As important as it is for your gear to provide crash protection -- it's equally important for your gear to function when you're not crashing. Hopefully, you'll spend the better part of your time in the saddle not crashing. Match the equipment to the conditions in which you intend to ride. Don't ever get on your motorcycle with any bare skin exposed. Too many motorcyclists are killed by automobile drivers who fail to yield the right-of-way while turning in front of the motorcyclist. And too many of those automobile drivers claim that they, "Didn't see the motorcycle." We the cyclists complain, regularly, about "not being seen" while moving through traffic. And the solution seems to be to make ourselves more visible, i.e., wear bright colors. But, too, there are people who do see us -- and just don't care. Worse yet, there are people who see us and then deliberately harass or menace us. The very same things that make "you the rider" visible and safe -- the full set of gear, the bright colors, the good riding habits -- seem, sometimes, to encourage cowardly automobile drivers to behave poorly. Having written that, black clothing isn't particularly
functional.
It gets hot. Considering adding red, orange and yellow clothing
to your riding ensemble. If you can stomach the idea, wear a
safety vest -- with reflective material. Wear a helmet. A properly-fitted, DOT-certified,
full-face helmet works harder than any other single piece of
gear. Personally, I prefer helmets that bear aditional
certification -- such as that offered by the Snell Memorial
Foundation, British Government or European Community. Most obviously, a helmet provides protection in the event of a
crash. The helmet's hard outer shell and energy
absorbing inner layer work together -- shielding a rider from abrasion
and penetration by foreign objects, while reducing the force
transmitted to the cranium by
increasing the change in time over which said force is transmitted. A helmet has tremendous insulating value too. In hot weather a
helmet will help to keep you cool; in cold weather it will help to keep
you warm. In the rain and in the wind a helmet with a face shield
protects its wearer from airborne debris that is not only a physical
hazard but also an obstacle to navigation. Perhaps less obvious to its wearer is the fact that a rider's
helmet is frequently the first piece of gear to be seen -- as a
result of its elevation. You can't know what background you'll be seen against;
therefore you can't know what helmet color will present the most
striking contrast to that background. In any case, not all
drivers have good color vision. Even so, white,
yellow, orange, pink and bright red solids all tend to be good choices.
Too, if
you ride at night consider applying reflective stickers to your
helmet. Without reflective material you are all but invisible in
low-light settings. I know, now, that a size "large" KBC or Shoei helmet should fit both my head's circumference and also my head's long-oval shape. You've got to don a likely model, fasten the reataining strap, wear it for a few minutes, and then repeat the procedure with several similar selections in order to determine what you ought to wear. Don't rush. The helmet's fit should be snug -- but it ought not to be in any way painful. Helmet Reviews: http://www.webbikeworld.com http://motorcycleinfo.calsci.com Motorcyclist magazine has called into question the value of the Snell certification -- especially as it relates to the helmets worn by the smallest riders: http://www.motorcyclistonline.com/gearbox/motorcycle_helmet_review/ (1) Learn what is available; Too many people skip directly to step (5). In fact, it would make sense to perform steps (1) - (5) prior
to
completing a
rider's
training course; then operate the training program's motorcycle while
wearing your own gear; then after
licensing wear your own gear while test-riding motorcycles, before
committing to a purchase. (1) First, get the gear; Did you buy a motorcycle without riding it? Various manufacturers and dealers whose inventory is available
on-line: Manufacturers: Catalogs: |
This is a document that reflects its author's personal experience. The information presented on this page is not a substitute for any factory manual, or professional service. Go to the MSF, the SMF and the AMA; they want to help you. Read the Hurt Report. Do your own research; formulate a hypothesis; test it. Read the material linked from this site. Take responsibility. Ride to be alive.
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