On the Road

Rain

As with most of motorcycling, the event will tend to go more-or-less well depending upon the time you've spend in preparation -- prior to meeting the challenge.

(1) Choice of motorcycle: Windshields and fairings are a big help. Too, not all tires perform equally well in low-traction environments; it is good to run an all-weather tire.
(2) Helmet: Nothing beats a full-face helmet in the rain. Period. Ride with a clean shield. Carry spray and a squeegee. Glove-mounted squeegee blades are better than nothing.
(3) Rain Gear: Nothing offers better protection than purpose-built motorcycle-specific rain gear. But you've got to have it with you, and know how to put it on -- quickly and correctly. Improvise with plastic trash bags; but don't count on staying dry.
(4) Put on Rain Gear BEFORE the Rain: The time to choose your stopping point and don the suit is prior to the shower.
(5) Know Where to Stop: Choose a defensible position at which to change, i.e., protected from traffic, punks, and the storm itself.
(6) Visibility: Remember that in the rain you'll be even less visible to traffic. Maybe, keep a "safety vest" with your rain gear?
(7) Avoid the First Drops: Water mixed with oil -- resting on the surface -- is a big hazard. Better a downpour than a mist.
(8) Adjust Your Riding Technique: Decrease speed; decrease lean angles; avoid any sudden throttle or brake inputs; increase your following distance. Avoid the middle of the lane, and downhill [runoff] side of the roadway.
(9) Know When to Call it Quits: Not every condition is navigable.

Wind: Wakes and Crosswinds

You share the highway with other traffic.

Objects moving through the air produce a "wake" that is similar to the disturbance a boat creates as it passes through the water. Different objects produce different "wakes" depending upon their size, shape and speed of travel.

When you encounter a wake in the air it will feel like a crosswind: buffeting you, and perhaps forcing you perpendicular to your intended path of travel. This can be upsetting.

In a wake, as in a crosswind, relax. Fight your panic respose. Don't become rigid and put a "death grip" on the handlebars. Minimize your exposure to the wake or crosswind by leaning forward. While you can't see the crosswind coming, you can see the truck that produces the wake in the air -- so allow its operator and yourself some extra room.

In a worst case scenario, you can adopt a turning posture -- into the wake or crosswind -- and continue to ride a straight line. Just be aware, very aware, that the moment the wake or crosswind fades you'll go rocketing off in the direction that you've been turning.

Like everything, it takes time. Speed is your enemy. Don't be rushed; don't let traffic force you to go too fast. How fast is that? If you needed to stop suddenly could you? If you needed to turn or swerve could you?

Some days it is too windy to ride. Stop.

Heat

(1) Hydrate;
(2) Wear light colors;
(3) Control air-flow over body surface;
(4) Maintain moisture on body surface;
(5) Carry cold water or ice in a Camel Back
(6) By the time you realize that you're fatigued, dehydrated or over-heated it's too late;
(7) Take a break, or stop.

Cargo and Packing

(1) Stay light. Stop there. Be honest about your "need" to take something on the motorcycle. Nine time out of ten, the less that you carry -- gear, tools, passengers -- the happier you will be.
(2) Keep the weight low;
(3) Keep the weight in tight;
(4) Keep the weight close to the center. Saddlebags, tank bags, and a soft bag that rides pillion are usually the best options. The worst place to add weight is on your handlebars -- followed by the rest of your front end, i.e., fork tubes, front fender, etc.
(5) Watch for heat;
(6) Watch for moving parts;
(7) Fasten everything securely;
(8) Balance your load;
(9) Never exceed the GVWR of your motorcycle.
(10) Consider how your load will behave in a crash. Tools, bottles, flammable liquids, etc, will hurt you. Keep that junk out of your tank bag -- and/or out of your backpack.

Long Distance Riding

(1) Tortoise beats hare: What counts is 'avg' mph -- not max/min speed. Accidents and tickets cost time, money, etc. Slow and steady wins the day.
(2) Fatigue: Many small and fast breaks are better than fewer & longer breaks. Most of us lose mental clarity before we lose physical ability. And -- like the drinker -- we're not likely to be honest about how our riding abilities are affected. Boredom is dangerous.
(3) Night riding: Assuming a 60mph avg, after 8 hours in the saddle you've only gone 480 miles. You've got to feel totally confident riding at night -- if the circumstances require it. Remember that you're much more likely to encounter wildlife at night.
(4) Rain and Wind: Even if the weather turns foul the ride goes on. You've got to feel totally confident riding in the wet and windy.
(5) Physical Condition: People who jump in a marathon without training tend to get hurt -- or at the very least get in the other runners' way. Building motorcycling distance capability over time, i.e., gradually, is good. Riding a bicycle is excellent cross-training.
(6) Motorcycle: Comfort is king; you need to feel good on your bike.
(7) Unexpected: You've got to have enough EMT skill to handle yourself if something happens -- at the very least one needs to be able to recognize the symptoms of hypothermia, etc. Even as it is true that if you can't repair your motorcycle, you've got to be able to recognize a problem before it kills you.

Bridges

There is much less traction available to you as you cross a metal grate. Everyone experiences vibration and drift.

DO:
(1) Set lowest practical speed prior to crossing, and hold it steady. Coasting is good too;
(2) Travel in a straight line -- like a rook on a chess board;
(3) Weight the foot pegs, grip the fuel tank with your knees, be conscious of your grip on handlebars -- not too tight;
(4) Look straight ahead -- preparing to very gradually adjust speed and/or path of travel if necessary.

DON'T:
(1) Grip the handlebars/clips too tightly -- attempting to "fight" the "wandering" motion;
(2) Apply any sudden or dramatic throttle, braking or steering inputs;
(3) Look down;
(4) Stop on the bridge grate if you can avoid it...

Plan ahead -- watch the vehicle in front of you in case it stops suddenly -- check your mirrors when you stop to see if the vehicle behind you is stopping -- leave an escape route, even on the bridge...

Vibration

You ride a motorcycle and experience numbness, tingling, a sensation of 'coldness,' and/or you see 'whiteness' in your hands.

Possible Causes:
(1) Your jacket, gloves or some other object [wallet] have restricted your blood flow or applied pressure to a nerve, i.e., constriction or pressure point;
(2) You have been exposed to some stress and have gone into a state of shock; your blood is drawn away from our extremities and is pooling around your internal organs;
(3) You are suffering from Raynaud's Phenomena -- a chronic degenerative condition caused by exposure to vibration, such as that produced by your motorcycle's engine;
(4) It is cold/windy outside, you have insufficient gear, and you are beginning to develop frostbite;
(5) You have some pre-existing medical condition that has only now become evident;
(6) You are suffering from Carpal Tunnel Syndrome;
(7) You are gripping the handlebar controls too tightly

Motorcycle-Based Solutions:

Gel Grips
Fill Bars [lead shot, Styrofoam, bar snake, silicone, etc]
Bar End Weights
Alter Handlebar Material, Length, [and/or] Shape
Change Motorcycles

Rider-Based Solutions:

Wear Gel Gloves
Relax
Stretch
"Shake Out" Arms
Rest
Improve Your Cardiovascular Health
Stop Motorcycling

Vibration varies in frequency and intensity - depending chiefly upon engine configuration, but also upon handlebar length. "Tolerable" is a subjective statement. Some hate the "buzz" [high frequency] of in-line 4-cylinders; other hate [amplitude] v-twins.

How To Jump Start Your Motorcycle

In most cases [having obtained a booster 12 volt power source - battery, vehicle, charger] the following procedure should be effective. Check your owner's manual.

(1) Park the vehicles as far apart as the cables will allow;
(2) Extinguish flame, shield face/body;
(3) Turn both vehicles' ignition 'off.'
(4) Connect the red clip on one cable end to the (+) positive terminal on the 'dead' MC battery;
(5) Connect the red clip on the other end of the cable to the booster battery;
(6) Connect the black clip on one cable end to the (-) terminal of the booster battery;
(7) Connect the black clip on the other end of the cable to the frame of the 'dead' motorcycle;
(8) Leaving booster vehicle 'off' follow the standard starting procedure for the 'dead' motorcycle;
(9) As soon as the 'dead' motorcycle starts, disconnect the cables - negative (-) first.

http://www.shadowriders.org/faq/jumpstarting.html
http://www.bigcee.com/klr650faq.html#electricalsystem
http://www.msgroup.org/TIP104.html

T O P | N E X T

This is a document that reflects its author's personal experience. The information presented on this page is not a substitute for any factory manual, or professional service. Go to the MSF, the SMF and the AMA; they want to help you. Read the Hurt Report. Do your own research; formulate a hypothesis; test it. Read the material linked from this site. Take responsibility. Ride to be alive.